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Drying Is Another Kind of Cooking

Summary of this article
This is a column in which the chef Yu Yoneyama considers the potential of Kyoto vegetables from the viewpoint that drying is "another kind of applying heat" to vegetables. When moisture is drawn out by sun-drying, the weight drops to about one-tenth, while the density of umami rises. It introduces changes in flavor through drying and their culinary applications—the shift to a savory note in Manganji togarashi, the earthy aroma of Horikawa burdock, the use of Shogoin turnip and kiriboshi daikon, and the increased umami of dried shiitake.

When I cook, I feel something special in the word "applying heat." Whether searing over high heat all at once, or slowly infusing warmth over low heat—by the sense of distance from the fire and the time you spend, the same ingredient shows an entirely different expression.
But at some point I realized: even without using fire, there's an act that can be called another kind of "applying heat." That was "drying."

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The "Applying Heat over Time" That Drying Teaches

How Sun and Wind Change a Vegetable

A vegetable spread out under the sun lets go of its moisture, wrapped in the searing light and the gently flowing wind. When moisture is drawn out, the flavor concentrates and the aroma takes on a clear outline. This change isn't simple evaporation but a chemical reaction that occurs as the sugars and amino acids within the cells concentrate. The vegetable's weight drops to about one-tenth of before drying, yet the density of umami in fact rises.

The Science of Umami Seen in Dried Shiitake

For example,Commercial dried shiitake. Fresh, their charm is a juicy aroma and bite, but dried, the umami component guanylic acid increases, and the depth when you take dashi from them is incomparable. This, I think, is a change through "applying heat over time."
The chemical reactions that fire causes in an instant, the sun and wind accumulate slowly but surely. In that quiet process there is a strength and a beauty different from flame.

The difference between sun-drying and machine drying

Today food dryers and freeze-drying technology are widespread too, but sun-drying has its own merits. The sunlight and wind draw out moisture slowly and change the fibers without strain, so the texture on rehydration finishes naturally. On the other hand, atCommercial dried vegetables, technology to minimize nutrient loss through temperature-controlled low-temperature drying is also advancing.

Listening to the Vegetables

The Change in Manganji Togarashi

Facing dried vegetables, I feel my senses as a cook shift a little.
For example,Manganji togarashiDry and that grassy aroma turns into a somewhat savory depth. Thick-fleshed summer-harvested Manganji, dried, shifts its balance of sweetness and heat, and added to a winter simmered assortment, a flavor that transcends the season is born.

The Earthy Memory of Horikawa Burdock

Horikawa goboShave thin and dry, and the earthy aroma and sweetness come more to the fore, and the savory depth when simmered grows a notch richer.
This is proof that a vegetable "changes within itself, even without being put to the fire." Rather than forcing a finish with flame, it entrusts itself to the natural rhythm of wind and sun. It's work that reminds even a cook of the posture of "waiting."

The Expression That Drying Widens

The Affinity of Dried Turnip with Dashi

A vegetable that has been through drying widens the range of cooking considerably.
Shogoin kaburaDry and rehydrate it in dashi, and distinctive wrinkles born only of drying form on the surface, and flavor soaks in there well. Because you can enjoy a texture and rich sweetness different from fresh turnip, it comes in handy when you want to add depth to a winter simmered dish.

The Texture and Sweetness of Kiriboshi Daikon

Shogoin daikonKiriboshi daikon made from has an exquisite crunchy texture and concentrated sweetness. Beyond simmered and dressed dishes, you can also rehydrate it as-is for use in salads.
A cook's work isn't only to "read the heat." Even without fire, you read the change in the ingredient and find new uses. Drying, I truly feel, is another kind of "cooking method."

The Resonance of Fire and Drying

Charcoal-Grilled Dried Shiitake

What's fascinating is that when you further put a vegetable changed by drying to the fire, an entirely new expression appears. Grill dried shiitake over charcoal and a rich aroma spreads that fresh shiitake could never yield. The Maillard reaction and the concentration of umami through drying combine to draw out the ingredient's potential to the fullest.

Oil-Fried Dried Manganji

Slowly stir-fry dried Manganji in oil and sweetness and bitterness overlap exquisitely, making you crave a glass of wine. Layering the fire of cooking onto the "preliminary applying of heat" that drying brings—doing so deepens the ingredient's layers and gives the flavor another notch of depth. It's an expression unique to drying, in which the delicacy and strength of Kyoto vegetables are felt at once.

Carrying the Culture of "Drying" into the Future

The Wisdom of Preservation Before the Refrigerator

Japan has long held the wisdom of preservation in dried fish and dried vegetables.
In an age without refrigerators, people protected ingredients relying on the sun and wind. It was not mere preservation but also "another kind of applying heat" that amplified umami. In Kyoto temples, dried vegetables have long been used as part of shojin cuisine, a technique handed down together withthe tradition of Kyoto vegetables.

The Fusion of Tradition and Innovation

When we cooks now inherit that wisdom, it isn't mere nostalgia but connects to new culinary expression. Pairing dried tomato with a Kyoto-style dashi, or slowly simmering driedKamo eggplantin Saikyo miso. Borrowing the traditional technique, we can explore new combinations.sustainable foodIn an age of rising interest in , the value of drying technology is being reappraised from a food-loss-reduction standpoint too.

The Luxury of Waiting

The Flavor That Time Creates

Amid busy days, a cook tends to prioritize "finishing quickly."
But facing dried vegetables reminds me of the importance of waiting. Just imagining vegetables lined up under the sun slowly changing softens the flow of time in cooking a little.

Making Dried Vegetables at Home

Dried vegetables can be started easily at home too.Kujo green onionChop , spread it on a colander, and dry it for about half a day on a fine day, and you have dried green onion that keeps as a condiment.A Seasonal CalendarReferring to and trying drying Kyoto vegetables by season is a fun experiment too.
Cooking isn't only "putting in effort" but also "entrusting to time," drying quietly teaches.

In Closing | Another Fire Given by Nature

Drying is another kind of applying heat.
Not the heat of flame but the flavor of time, born by borrowing the power of sun and wind. Holding this viewpoint as a cook widens the joy of facing vegetables many times over.
Today too, dried vegetables in hand, I think: this isn't mere preserved food but "another kind of applying heat" that nature has bestowed. And when I layer fire onto such vegetables, the world of cooking spreads ever deeper.

Frequently Asked Questions About Dried Vegetables and Applying Heat

Do dried vegetables taste different from fresh vegetables?

As moisture is drawn out, umami, sweetness, and aroma concentrate, giving a deeper flavor than fresh. Added to simmered dishes and soups, the flavor spreads like a dashi.

When making dried vegetables at home, how many days does it take?

For thinly sliced vegetables, they finish in about 2–3 days on fine days. Thin leafy greens like Kujo green onion dry in half a day to a day. The point is to choose days of continuous low-humidity clear weather.

How long do dried vegetables keep?

Stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place, they keep their flavor for about 1–3 months. With commercial low-temperature drying or vacuum packing, storage of over six months is possible too. Because absorbing moisture during storage causes mold, including a desiccant is recommended.

Which Kyoto vegetables are suited to drying?

Manganji togarashi, , Shogoin daikon, and Kujo green onion suit drying. Ones not too high in moisture, with firm fibers, are suitable. Kamo nasu can also be dried if thinly sliced, but thick slices dry poorly, so take care.Horikawa goboAny tips for rehydrating dried vegetables?

Using lukewarm water rather than cold rehydrates them faster and curbs flavor loss. Rehydrating in dashi lets you use it as a seasoning liquid as-is, deepening the flavor while cutting steps. For ones like dried shiitake, where umami dissolves into the soaking liquid, using the liquid together in cooking is recommended.

This article explains, through the history and wisdom carried on since the Heian period, Kyoto's traditional preserved foods. It introduces three techniques—drying, pickling, and fermenting—covering Kyoto pickles such as senmai-zuke, suguki-zuke, and shiba-zuke, kiriboshi daikon (nokishinobu), Saikyo-zuke, and fermented foods. It also touches on their relationship with Kyoto vegetables such as 300-year-old Kamo nasu, Shogoin daikon, Manganji togarashi, and Kujo green onion, the use of off-grade vegetables accounting for about 30% of the total harvest and its contribution to a sustainable diet, and the mail-order brand "OYAOYA."

Recommended reading

List of Kyoto vegetable varieties / Kyoto vegetable calendar / Commercial dried vegetables / The Technology to Lock In the Season. The Seasonal Story Dried Vegetables Connect. / Kyoto Vegetables and Dashi —The Resonance Between the Ingredient's Voice and the Dashi—

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    Author of this article

    小島 怜's avatar Rei Kojima Agriture CEO

    CEO of Agriture Inc. Runs a contract processing and OEM business centered on dried vegetables and dried fruit. In partnership with farmers within Kyoto Prefecture, he pursues “sustainable food distribution” through the use of non-standard vegetables and support for sixth-industrialization. Drawing on extensive hands-on experience at manufacturing sites, he provides support that walks alongside every business considering OEM—from product planning and prototyping to small-lot handling, packaging design, and sales-channel development.

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